Technical and Field Information

Camera and Lenses

My images are most often shot with a Nikon F3, and occasionally with a another, more "automatic" camera much like a point-and-shoot model. The lenses I most commonly use are:

a 28-200 zoom, valued for its general flexibility and modest size
a Nikkor 35mm "architectural" or "shift" lens, often used to prevent image distortion

Filters and Image Control

Since I strive for faithfully rendered, natural imagery, I use no colored filters, gels or "effects" (like starburst, soft focus or other) filters. (I'd prefer to find natural images that are, themselves, impressive.) The filters I do use are very traditional ones, used for lens protection as much as they are used for making the film capture more of what the eye actually sees:

UV and Skylight filters for ultraviolet and haze control
a Polarizing filter, for glare and reflection control
neutral density (ND) filters, for exposure control without compromizing color balance

Film, Paper and Lab Work

I usually shoot film rated ASA 100 or slower, for its clarity and fine grain. The 2 kinds of professional film I most frequently use are:

Fuji Reala
Kodak Lumiere

For printing, I strongly prefer - and recommend - Agfa color papers. They are more accurate for my kind of photography than anything else I've found.

I do not print my own images; professional labs that do this for a living are better equipped to handle the chemical and environmental controls that can result in consistently good images. Instead, I rely on developing a one-on-one creative synergy with the lab technician to carefully watch density, color control and other factors. I use just a few labs across the US.

Shooting Philosophy and Technique

For me, exposure is everything - allowing capture of fleeting moments of nature as they pass by. My passion is to shoot scenes illuminated - in breathtaking or unusual ways - by nature itself. I can usually afford leaving depth-of-field 2nd priority because of the nature of my work - landscape scenic photography.

Most composition is through-the-lens, with shots done just a bit oversize to compensate for - and take advantage of - the cropped printed sizes of images as delivered by labs.

Because the unusually illuminated scenes of nature I shoot are very fleeting, I often shoot without a tripod. A tripod will not allow me to quickly move to take advantage of unusual angles: on the ground, leaning out or over obstacles or subjects, etc. Compensation for the lack of a tripod is mostly by "classic" means: a faster shutter, shooting during daylight hours, meditation-aided breathing control, leaning on or against natural objects, etc. (Sometimes, of course, a tripod cannot be avoided; the scene's lighting and technical capabilities of my equipment tell me when one is necessary.)

Skills and References

I don't consider myself a general, technical master, but have learned and developed technical skills that allow me to shoot very satisfying and emotional images of the kinds of subjects I specialize in. I have long admired and learned from the work of John Shaw, a reknowned scenic and landscape photographer. He has published some fine books on photography; I recommend them most highly. Another excellent site with an on-line magazine, workshop seminars and links to various photographers and technical information can be found at:

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